One kajjaya, two kajjaya, three kajjaya…

There is something very special about the kajjayas given as prasada at the Iguthappa temple. The ingredients are simplicity itself – rice flour (made from soaked, dried and powdered rice) cooked in jaggery syrup, and bananas. And yet, they come together with a certain je ne sais quois.

No matter how delicious the versions made at home are, these remain unique in their appeal. Perhaps if you could capture the scent of wood smoke, freshly cracked coconuts, sandalwood, camphor and sampigé (Magnolia champaca), then shake them all together with a dash of cool, clean air and brilliant blue skies, topped with a large dose of serenity, you might come close. But some things are just best enjoyed at the source.

Of the various fried sweets made from a foundation of rice flour and jaggery, there is a small subset that falls into the category of kajjaya. Subtle variations set them apart, but they are essentially fried dumplings or small cakes made from ground rice and jaggery with a few added ingredients like bananas and coconut, sesame or poppy seed, and spices like cardamom or fenugreek.

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A visit to Iguthappa temple: a picnic for the soul

One of the highlights of our visits to my grandparents in Coorg, as a child, was a trip to the Paadi Iguthappa* temple in Kakkabé. Though we made visits to the temple at other times of year too, the ones that were most special to me happened around the time of the harvest festival of Puthari, usually in early December.

Set into a wooded hill, with waves of terraced paddy fields wrapping around the base of it, the temple radiates a calm and simple beauty. The presiding deity of the temple is Iguthappa, known as “the giver of grain” and his promise to the people of Coorg is that as long as he is honoured, the land will prosper.

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