I’ve been hearing wonderful things about Pune for many years now, but somehow, the chance to visit had eluded me until recently.
Pune, formerly known as Poona, the second largest city in the state of Maharashtra, is a fascinating mix of history and modernity. It has a thriving cultural scene that the locals are justifiably proud of. Music, dance, theatre, it’s all there.
There’s a lot you can do in a weekend in Pune. The question is where to begin taking in all the wonderful things that the city has to offer. Many phone calls, text messages, and drawing up of lists later, we had an itinerary tailored to our time and interests.
Every visitor in Pune has their version of Pune Darshan (viewing). Here is some of what was on our menu!
A trip to the elegant Aga Khan Palace, site of Mahatma Gandhi’s house arrest between 1942 and 1944. This is also the place where Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadevbhai Desai, Gandhi’s personal secretary, both died, and where their ashes are interred. If you do visit, take time to wander through the exhibits in the building – there’s a real sense of history here.
Try not to be distracted at the samadhi by an array of spice mixes, squashes, cookies, khadi cloth and various knick knacks laid out nearby by the ladies of Kasturba Mahila Khadi Gramodyog Vidyalaya. I’ve just tried their chai masala and it’s good 😉
And on to another place of quiet remembrance, the Kirkee War Cemetery, which is impeccably maintained by the Commonwealth Graves Commission. A serene spot on the banks of the Mula river, this is a memorial to soldiers who died in the first and second world wars.
Not far from there, we stopped to admire the gothic charms of the Deccan College, one of the many outstanding educational institutions that Pune is home to.
Shaniwarwada, the historic fort that was once the residence of the Peshwas who ruled the Maratha empire is an interesting site. It’s a bit thin on shade giving trees, so getting there at the hottest time of day was not a good idea. Fortunately February is a relatively cool month. There’s a college nearby, so naturally the grounds are littered with young couples, trysting during the lunch break. Speaking of lunch, Durvankur is one many restaurants in Pune that dish up delicious vegetarian thali meals.
A quick visit to the famous Dagdusheth Halwai Ganapati Temple, and then to the heart of the city, Tulsi Baug, to take in the sights and sounds of a busy market. There’s lots of lovely brass and copper to look at.
I wouldn’t leave Pune without a trip to the Raja Kelkar Museum which houses a wonderful collection of everyday objects from around the country. (That’s just the kind of showcasing Professor Appanna‘s collection needs!)
Not bad going, but there’s also a lot you can’t do in just a weekend in Pune. Like make a dent in all the fantastic food to be had. Doing my level best, I headed off on a round of food related shopping, scouting out buttery cakes, Parsi spice mixes, and squeezing in a pilgrimage to the Kayani bakery, source of those famous Shrewsbury biscuits.
I even managed to spend time browsing in Pune’s much loved Manney’s bookstore. Sadly, they will be closing down at the end of March.
Well, Manney’s or no Manney’s, I hope to be back to see much more of this charming city!
hi shalu,
lovely post…especially the pictures. Fabulous! So when are u going to write about Balinese food (and beverages) and put up all the lovely pics you took of the wet markets there?
coincidently, last night i met a woman who’d just moved to pune after 10 years in b’lore and she loves it…especially after b’lore!
Thanks, Kavitha!
I would really love to spend more time in Pune myself- great place.
Unfortunately,a lot of my Bali market pics were scuppered by that problem with the batteries,remember? So, there’s only one thing to do..;-)
A delightful post and so well written as always . Thanks for these wonderful magic windows through which we can gaze into the city . I am so ashamed that having lived in Pune for so long , I never visited the Kirkee War Cemetery. This glorious city has so much to offer in so many ways . ABC farms used to have a nice little MILK BAR at the end of Mains Street, their lemon Lassi I would kill for 🙂 . They have a cheese making outlet on ABC farms where they stock some truly wonderful herbs and other condiments . This post brought back the most wonderful memories . Years back a young girl she was then , called Wenty opened a tiny cake shop called Cake and Counter , the signature chocolate cake was a all time hit and she would make it nicely dark and a biter if you requested . Some 25 down the road , even today , the standard of that cake has fallen not one teeny bit . Pune is such a wonderful blend of the traditional and the modern , quite like Bangalore which is home now , but Pune will always be my love . I do hope you will get a chance to visit Pune again and again , and keep ticking off the places on your to do list . I miss the quaint silver jewellery shops on Center Street , the amazing eating places , Sihangad , NDA . Oh I do want to go there. The photography is brilliant Shalini.
Hi Jyoti!
Thank you , and I’m so pleased to hear that this post managed to stir up good memories for an erstwhile Punekar 🙂 I can’t believe I didn’t get to Pune many years before this, even though it was always on my radar.
That chocolate cake sounds fab.I am embarrassed to admit just how much sampling of baked goodies I did, beginning with an early morning pop of mava cake.I think the famous ABC farms (also on the list!)is where my cheese making friend used to get her milk from.
Singhad and NDA were too much to work in, given the time, but are very much on my list. And the Kirkee cemetery should be on your list for your next trip to Pune –it’s quite beautiful and fascinating, in the way that cemeteries can be.
I can’t wait for the weather to warm up to try a lemon lassi.And speaking of elevated temperatures, do I sense exam fever is subsiding temporarily? or momentarily, as we have it here 🙂
Oh yes exams long since done Shalini and I am not even thinking about results. Trust me in my usual scatterbrained ways , to forget commenting on the link with Professor Apanna’s collection . It truly does deserve a wonderful museum . And talking of which, have you been to the Chitra Goa in Salcette? If not it would really delight you , Here are a couple of links http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=YqZuLgt38BE.
http://www.goachitra.com/museum.html. have most foolishly planned a holiday in Goa in at the scorching height of a tropical summer . This is the first to do on my list and am hoping that the long drive some 55 kms hopefully along a liberal sprinkling of fields (from North Goa where we are staying) will be just as lovely.
Thanks for that! What a terrific collection, and he seems so knowledgeable about it too. My time in Goa was all too brief and too long ago. Let’s see what we can do to remedy that.My list is getting longer..
On a gloomy, wet, spring day, the thought of puttering about in tropical Goa is very appealing..have a great trip!:-)