Turkey in Kushalnagar, Thanksgiving in Canada: between old and new worlds

The New World entered my subconscious in tricky ways, very early in life. Blame it on too many American comic books and magazines. To me, the idea of sitting down to a succulent, roast turkey dinner was possibly the holy grail of poultry, when I was young. My earliest encounters with the live birds were in the early 70’s, on my aunt and uncle’s farm near Kushalnagar in Coorg. Among other creatures, several of these large, exotic birds strutted about the place.

“The farm” as we always referred to it, was a dream destination for us young cousins.There were vast acres to explore and a lake to go out rowing on. My uncle was an experimental farmer, and the landscape we encountered here was nothing like the cool, shaded, familiarity of the coffee estates. Walking through fields of sunflowers, tobacco, and corn in the blazing sun was indescribably thrilling – even more so than ignoring the shrill calls to “put on a hat” as we flew out of the house in search of adventure! There were large barns where harvested crops would be stored, and finding a red ear of corn amongst the heaps of golden yellow was treasure indeed. There were a couple of these garnet specimens displayed in the pantry of the farm house, and I paid them regular visits, marvelling at their beauty.


My aunt made us treats of home-made chocolate ice cream, served in real wafer cones. I have yet to taste its equal anywhere. Also, chocolate fudge. (More about that fudge later on in this blog!) My uncle, whom we all adored for being one of the most jolly and fun-loving adults in our world, was an enthusiastic cook himself. One Christmas, we finally got to eat one of those poor turkeys. What a moment of high excitement it was! And while it was not the exaggeratedly plump, meltingly tender, cartoon bird of my dreams, my uncle’s penchant for adding “more butter”, a la Julia Child made it divine. We chewed on, bravely, savouring the new world.

Who would have known, so many years later, that I would be celebrating Thanksgiving in Canada. Autumn, or “Fall” as it is known in North America, is here. There is a contemplative air about us as the leaves start to change colour. After two wonderful celebrations on Thanksgiving weekend, it’s a good time to sit back and take stock of just what we’re celebrating, and giving thanks for, over a simple meal of khichdi.

Last Saturday’s dinner was in the home of Kodava friends, and I could’ve sworn I was back in Coorg for the time we were there! From the easy banter and warm hospitality , to the table laden with a mix of traditional and eclectic fare , it was the real deal. There were home made curry puffs and stuffed mushrooms to snack on before the main meal. For dinner, naturally, there was pandi (pork) curry, but also a chicken pulao, and several interesting sides and salad. Our intrepid hostess took on the task of making fresh akki ottis for a large crowd and managed to make it all look effortless. We gathered in chattering groups at the kitchen counter and watched, as she went through the process of pressing, roasting and  puffing the ottis over the flames.

If that wasn’t enough, there was also perfectly fried fish, made the way it is done in Coorg and South Canara – spiced, then coated with semolina to give the fish a lovely crisp casing. This was very Canadian fish though – Sockeye Salmon caught in the Chilliwack River by our host!

Sunday was another feast, another tradition. There was turkey, cranberry sauce, yam, green beans  and more – a classic North American Thanksgiving menu, as delectably cooked and beautifully presented as we know to expect from our lovely and thoughtful hosts. Everything was locally sourced and organic, a true celebration of the bounty of a New World harvest. To accommodate a guest’s dairy intolerance, the mashed potatoes were made from a specially chosen variety that is naturally buttery. With an amazing  variety to choose from, our friends really do know their potatoes! Once again, the real deal.

Of course, the Old World was nobly represented by the cheesemaking traditions of Europe and the grapes of Champagne, Burgundy and Armagnac!

The company was wonderful, the atmosphere warm. As we said grace before dinner, I gave thanks for the memories of food shared, new worlds and old, new friends and old, and, recalling a recent visit, long lost old friends that are new again.

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